|Adventures Under the Hood|
The electric choke sticks out on the right side of the carburetor, and has red-with-white-tracer wires plugged into it. It's operation is straight ahead. When the engine is started, the electric heating element is energized through a relay tied to the oil pressure switch, gradually opening the choke.
Also shown in this photo is the Wide Open Throttle switch (blue and black wires).
Your Jeep gives you trouble when you start it up cold. As soon as you give it a little gas pedal, it sputters and stalls, or maybe it continues to run but misses badly and possibly blows some smoke out the tailpipe. Once it warms up, it's fine.
These are both classic symptoms of a carburetor choke that is malfunctioning and/or out of adjustment.
Adjusting the choke
Things that can go wrong
First, check the heating element with an ohmmeter. Find the plug at the choke and unplug it. Check between the choke contact and ground. It should read in the neighborhood of 3.8 ohms. If it's far higher, or open, it's defective.
With the choke plugged in and the engine running, check for 12—14 volts at that contact. If there is no voltage then you'll have to trace the wires backward to find out why.
Also, those bimetal springs can wear out as I mentioned above, and they no longer will move the choke door far enough — if it's set with the proper tension when cold, it won't open all the way — if it's set to open all the way, it won't close completely. There is nothing to do here except buy a new choke mechanism.
With a properly adjusted choke, a cold engine should start easily in any weather, run nicely, and you should be able to drive away immediately. As it warms up, nothing should change regarding engine smoothness, except the fast idle should quickly drop down.