Ferrets are members of the family Mustelidae, which include weasels, mink, otters, skunk, ermines, fishers, and many others. Their closest relative is the European polecat, and it is believed that the domestic ferret is a direct descendant of this species. Domestic ferrets should not be confused with the endangered Black Footed Ferret while their appearance is similar, the two animals are actually only distant cousins of one another.

There are an estimated eight to ten million ferrets in the United States being kept as pets. Ferrets are wonderfully unique animals and can be very suitable pets for many people. Ferrets are small and quiet, making them ideal pets for people with smaller homes or apartments. Ferrets are hypo-allergenic, so for many people who are allergic to cats or dogs, ferrets may be an alternative. Recently, it was discovered that ferrets can be ideal pets for HIV-Positive persons; cats and dogs can carry diseases that can be transmitted to infected persons and can be fatal. It seems that ferrets are not carriers of these dangerous diseases.

Ferrets are extremely playful, loving pets. Each ferret has his or her own unique personality; I have said in the past that if you took all of my ferrets (currently ten) and painted them the same color, I could still tell which one was which just by their behavior. Ferrets do not require daily walks, as dogs do. They aren't as aloof and moody as many adult cats can be. Ferrets should be caged when their humans are away from home or sleeping, but they need daily "run time" when adult supervision is available. Ferrets can be litter-trained (with some work), and they make excellent travelling companions.

Despite the fact that ferret lovers would never trade these pets for anything, ferrets aren't for everyone. This makes sense; cats and dogs aren't for everyone, either. Ferrets are mischevious critters, and they can get themselves hurt if their surroundings haven't been "ferretproofed." Some ferrets do not take well to litter training when they are out of their cages, so people considering owning a ferret must be prepared for "accidents" while a system is developed for preventing them. Ferrets can also be costly; these pets should not be considered a "low maintenence" pet. The average price for a ferret is around $100, a good cage can run $90 to $150, and the price just for required annual veterinary care is around $130-$150. This price covers only a checkup, rabies and distemper vaccines, and a CBC (complete blood count) to screen for diseases. If your ferret should get sick, you can easily spend hundreds of dollars more to heal him.

Ferrets generally make suitable pets in homes where cats and dogs live. I've got six cats in addition to my ferrets, and I have never had any problem with their interaction; in fact, a few of my ferrets are wonderful playmates for a few of my cats. The rest simply co-exist and ignore one another. Dogs and ferrets can peacefully live together, but it is important to be very, very careful in your first few introductions between these pets to ensure that neither gets hurt.

Ferrets can be good pets in homes with older children, but in general you should wait until your children are mature enough to understand how to handle ferrets before purchasing one. While ferrets are easily trained not to bite, any animal that is being manhandled by children may become frightened and nip. As for babies: there are no pets that should be allowed around a baby unsupervised. Accidents can, and do, happen. Each family is different; it is up to parents to decide at what age their children are responsible enough to handle owning a pet.

To better be able to determine if a ferret is the right pet for you, take the time to learn more about ferrets. There are a number of excellent books available about ferrets; one I highly recommend is A Practical Guide to Ferret Care by Deborah Jeans, and it is available at nearly any bookstore, either on the shelf or it can be ordered. You can also visit the ferret shelter nearest you; just call up and tell the shelter director that you are interested in learning more about ferrets as pets.

There is simply far too much information I could put on this page about ferrets, so I am going to limit myself to the top ten most important things the PFRA wants you to know about ferrets. Because ferrets are so complex and unique, these ten items are by no means everything you should know about ferrets. I highly recommend that you purchase a book about ferrets, check out other web sites devoted to these pets, and definitely read the Ferret FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) that is available on the Internet.

IMPORTANT THING #1: DISTEMPER AND RABIES VACCINES

Ferrets absolutely must be kept current on their canine distemper and rabies vaccinations. Canine Distemper is 100% fatal in ferrets; there is no cure. There is, however, a foolproof method of prevention: vaccination. Kits need a series of three distemper vaccinations to start off with, then ferrets need an annual vaccination. There is a proven effective, approved distemper vaccine available for use on ferrets: Fervac-D canine distemper vaccine. If this vaccine is unavailable in your area for some reason, Galaxy-D is also acceptable, but there is some question about whether it is or is not yet a proven vaccine for ferrets to date. If you intend to show your ferrets, be warned that some organizations that host shows will not allow your ferret in the show hall if he has not been vaccinated with Fervac-D. Encourage your veterinarian to carry Fervac-D for use in ferrets!

You may be wondering why, if you do not have a dog and your ferret has no access to dogs, that you need to vaccinate against canine distemper. Canine distemper is an airborne disease, and your ferret can be exposed to it in several ways. If you take your ferret out for a walk, and he walks in the same area a dog has been previously, he may become infected. If you come in contact with a dog, you can become a carrier of the disease. Even if you are outdoors, nowhere near a dog, you can still pick the disease up on your shoes and clothing. Once your ferret comes in contact with the disease there is nothing you can do for your pet, and it is a terrible death for a ferret. With a vaccination, your ferret is completely protected.

Vaccinating your ferret with an approved rabies vaccination (IMRAB-3, available from any veterinarian) is also important. While there have been very, very few cases of ferrets contracting rabies (14 ferrets since 1958), if your ferret should nip the wrong person, it is possible that they will press to have your ferret destroyed for rabies testing. You should be aware, however, that most states do not recognize the rabies vaccination in ferrets (due to the lack of shedding studies in ferrets) and if someone were to press to have your ferret destroyed it could still happen. However, if your ferret is vaccinated, it is possible that this will be a large enough deterrent to keep someone from reporting the bite incident in the first place. Because the likelihood that your ferret will contract rabies in the first place is so slim, the biggest reason to have him vaccinated is to protect him against those people who will not listen to statistics or take the time to learn about ferrets, and who would insist on reporting an innocent nip to authorities and subsequently having your ferret destroyed.

Here are just a few of the FACTS about ferrets and rabies:

• Since 1958, the year Centers For Disease Control started reporting rabies statistics, there have only been 14 ferrets found to have been rabid, and at least a few of these cases were attributed to being vaccinated with the wrong rabies vaccination, resulting in the disease. By comparison, between 1980 and 1992 alone (only a 12 year window), there were 2,537 cases of rabies reported in cats, and 1,996 cases reported in dogs.
• There has never been a transmission of rabies from a ferret to a human reported in the United States.
• Ferrets are not (cannot be) left loose outdoors. They cannot survive more than a few days out of captivity, due to the fact that they have absolutely no survival skills left from their wild ancestors. Because ferrets are not permitted outdoors except under the close supervision of their human, there is virtually no chance that they can become infected with rabies.
• It seems as though there is a natural resistance to the rabies disease in the close relatives of the ferret, namely the weasel, mink and ermine. During the period from 1989 to 1994, there were 10,733 cases of rabies reported in skunks in the United States, and there were 21,447 cases of rabies reported in raccoons. During this same period, there were exactly zero reported cases of rabies in weasels, mink, and ermines. These statistics suggest the possibility that there is a natural resistance to the disease in the weasel family.
• There is a USDA approved rabies vaccine for ferrets; namely, IMRAB-3 by Rhone Merieux.

IMPORTANT THING #2: ANNUAL VETERINARY CHECKUPS

Any veterinarian will tell you that no matter what kind of pet you have, it needs to go to the vet at least once a year. While this statement is true, you will always hear your friends say that they've had their dog, cat, etc. for fourteen years and it's never needed to go to the vet. I'm pleading with new and unknowing experienced ferret owners to believe me when I say that ferrets MUST have an annual visit to the veterinarian. First of all, they need their vaccinations, as described above. Secondly, ferrets (especially over the age of three) must have a series of bloodwork run once a year to scan for various diseases. Ferrets seem to be prone to certain diseases and cancers, such as lymphosarcoma, insulinoma, and adrenal gland disease, to name a few. Many of the diseases that ferrets get will exhibit signs, but in many cases, once the signs have become visible it may be too late to save his or her life. If you have a good veterinarian examine your ferret annually, keep accurate records of weight gain and loss, and perform some simple blood tests, it is possible to detect disease before signs are visible, and successfully treat your ferret.

The PFRA requires of all adoptive parties that an annual CBC (complete blood cell count) and a blood glucose test be performed on a yearly basis. These tests cannot detect all illnesses, but they are a very good place to start when considering your pet's health. There are some reports that ferrets may have as high as a 75% cancer rate; I have not yet been able to confirm this statistic but it scares me enough that I highly recommend having these tests run on ferrets annually. The tests are not expensive, and I honestly believe that your pet's health and well-being are well worth the cost.

IMPORTANT THING #3: OTHER TIMES TO TAKE YOUR FERRET TO THE VET

The following list is not a comprehensive list; anytime your ferret is behaving or appearing abnormally, go to the vet. Some of the more common signs ferret owners will see that require a vet's opinion are as follows:

• If your ferret stops eating or drinking for more than a day.
• If your ferret's stools are small, oddly-shaped, or have an unusual appearance. If your ferret has completely stopped passing stools (14-20 hours since last movement), or seems to be straining and unable to pass stools, see a vet immediately as this is a sign of an intestinal blockage.
• If your ferret is lethargic, seems depressed, doesn't seem to be as active/playful as usual.
• Hair loss should always be checked, but if your ferret is losing it's hair in a pattern beginning from the tip of the tail, up through the hind end, to the neck, this is a very serious sign of adrenal disease. In female ferrets this may be accompanied by a swollen vulva, in which case surgery should be considered immediately.
• Weakness in the hind legs, or difficulty walking.
• Any rapid weight loss or weight gain should be checked by a vet.
• Vomiting that has been ongoing for more than a few hours, or any vomiting that seems to cause your ferret pain or discomfort.
• If your ferret has diarrhea you should closely monitor his/her behavior for a day and check for improvement; during this time you must keep your ferret hydrated with lots of water and Pedialyte (the kind for children). If the diarrhea persists for more than a day or so it must be checked.
• Again, ANY other behavior that is uncommon or unusual for your ferret should be checked by your veterinarian. Period.

IMPORTANT THING #4: SPAYING OR NEUTERING YOUR FERRET

It is very unlikely that you will purchase a ferret from a pet store that has not been altered (neutered/spayed). However, if you purchase your ferret from a breeder, he/she may not be altered. PLEASE alter your ferret. Breeding should be left to professionals that are trained and equipped to handle the unique breeding and birthing habits of ferrets. Breeding ferrets is not as simple as breeding cats; many people decide not to spay their cats "just so we can have one litter." It is not a good idea in ferrets! If you would like more information about breeding ferrets, contact us, and we will put you in touch with people who can give you more information.

Whole (unaltered) male ferrets tend to be more aggressive, and the odor that they give off is extremely unpleasant and not suitable for homes. Female ferrets who are not spayed MUST be bred, every season, or they will not survive. When female ferrets go into heat, they will not come back out of heat until they have been mated with. If they are not brought out of heat, they will die of anemia.

IMPORTANT THING #5: FERRETPROOFING YOUR HOME

Although your ferret should be caged (or kept in a 100%, completely ferretproofed "ferret room") at all times that you are not at home or are sleeping, your ferret will need to have "run time" every day to keep him happy and healthy. Ferrets are extremely inquizzitive, mischevious little devils, and they will want to examine every inch of your home every time he/she is left out. This can be dangerous, even fatal, in ferrets. Ferrets can fit into any area as small as 2 X 2 inches, so gaps in your woodwork, crevices under refrigerators, cabinets, and other household appliances are common places for ferrets to get into. Many times, the areas your ferret will fit into are places that humans can't get into to retrieve their ferret. Dryer vents lead to the outdoors, and the hoses that connect your dryer to the outdoors are favorite play places for ferrets. They can, and will, climb through these hoses and you may never see your furry again.

Household plants, cleaners and other poisons, and things made of plastic, rubber, and foam are favorite no-nos that ferrets will get into if left in their reach. When you bring a ferret into your home you must literally crawl around your house on your hands and knees, checking for any area that a ferret might want to investigate. Remove anything that you think that your ferret could possibly get into, even if it seems unlikely. Remember that ferrets can open cabinet doors, dresser drawers, can climb into bathtubs and toilets, and can dig holes into garbage bags. With ferrets in the house NEVER leave your garbage bag on the floor "for just a minute" before it goes to the curb. That's all it will take for your ferret to get inside the bag, then get a one-way ticket to the dump. Similarly, every single time you do laundry, shake out each piece of clothing before it goes into the washing machine. If you pick up a handful of laundry and put it in to be washed, you could be giving a horrible death to a ferret peacefully sleeping in cozy clothes. Also, get into the habit of checking inside of your dishwasher, garbage compactor, and refrigerator every single time you close their doors. It really only takes a second for your ferret to get into them, and the results can be horrible.

Finally, the best method of ferretproofing is to watch your ferret closely when he/she is out. You will learn the places that your ferret is likely to get into trouble, and you will find places that need to be ferretproofed that you hadn't even considered. For more information about ferretproofing, contact us.

IMPORTANT THING #6: CHOOSING YOUR FERRET'S VETERINARIAN

When taking a cat or a dog to a vet, most people feel fairly confident that just about any veterinarian will have the knowledge and expertise to accurately diagnose and treat their pet. Unfortunately, this is not the case with ferrets. Until recently, veterinary schools and universities did not place much emphasis on teaching vets-in-training about ferrets. They weren't seen as being as common as cats and dogs, and some vets I have spoken with have said that the school that they went to only offered comprehensive teaching about ferrets as "elective programs" rather than required teaching. The good news is that it seems that in recent years more in-depth information has been taught in veterinary programs. The bad news is that many, many vets in this country, more often than not older vets who have been out of school for decades, have little or no training in ferret biology and diseases.

Do not take your ferret to the vet that has treated your cat for the past ten years simply because you know this vet. When selecting a ferret vet, first call all of the vets in your local area and ask if you may meet with or speak over the phone with the vet him/herself (don't rely on the word of the receptionist.) When you speak with the vet, ask how many ferrets he/she has treated in the past year. Ask if they are familiar with the approved vaccinations for use in ferrets, and make sure they are using Fervac-D for distemper and IMRAB-3 for rabies. Ask if they routinely perform CBCs and blood-sugar levels for ferrets over the age of three or four. Find out how many surgeries have been performed on ferrets in the past year, and how successful these surgeries have been. You should be able to determine simply by talking with the veterinarian if they are knowledgable about ferrets and if they enjoy seeing/treating ferrets. Another excellent method of choosing a veterinarian is to ask other ferret owners in your area what vet they use, and how satisfied they are. Calling your local ferret club or shelter should prove very helpful in finding a vet in your area.

The following veterinarians have been used by and are recommended by the Pennsylvania Ferret Rescue Association:

• Dr. Sharon Marx, D.V.M., Metzger Animal Hospital, State College. (814) 237-5333.
• Dr. Alan Friedlander, D.V.M., Animal Medical Hospital, State College. (814) 234-0201.

• Dr. Karen Allum, D.V.M., Animal Medical Center, Trappe. (610) 489-8982.
• Dr. Anna Edling, D.V.M., Line Lexington Veterinay Hospital, Line Lexington. (215) 822-8918.

IMPORTANT THING #7: TAKING YOUR FERRET OUTDOORS

Many people like to take their ferrets outdoors with them. With some common sense precautions, taking ferrets outside can be very good for them, and they will be very happy. However, there are some special considerations that you must be aware of when it comes to taking your ferret on an outing.

• Always keep your ferret on a leash when going outside. There are some very good harnesses on the market for ferrets; purchase the flat nylon H-style ones that have a place to attach the leash between the shoulders. There are some "ferret harnesses" sold in many pet stores that are not good choices, though; the ones that are called "figure eight" harness/leashes that are sold on a cardboard ferret are in many cases worthless. Ferrets are very squirmy and they can very easily slip out of these products. Even if you are in a confined/secluded area outdoors, don't let your ferret off of his/her leash. If anything should interest or frighten your ferret, he or she can dart off in an instant. Ferrets can run very quickly, and if they find cracks, animal holes, or other dangerous places to get into you may not be able to protect or retrieve your ferret.
• Be very careful about the temperature when you take your ferret out. Ferrets cannot handle high temperatures or direct sunlight for prolonged periods. Temperatures above 80 F can even be life threatening to ferrets. Ferrets absolutely should never be taken in a car without air conditioning; if you must cool your car by having your windows down your ferret should be kept in a carrier. However, make sure someone constantly checks the ferret; carriers can harbor heat and you may not know if your ferret is going into distress. You can never leave a ferret in a hot car, even just to dash into the bank. Ferrets are very small and it literally only takes minutes before your ferret goes into heat shock.If you take your ferret to the park in the summer, always take a good supply of water, offer it to your ferret frequently, and make sure that your ferret spends more time in the shade than in the sun. Don't make your outing an all-day affair if you cannot get your ferret into cool surroundings periodically; in these cases, leave your ferret at home. Ferrets do not sweat and they have no way of tolerating heat. If your ferret begins to pant, this is a sure sign that the temperature is too much for him to handle. If this happens, immedately get your ferret out of the heat. If you have no place to go, take a towel, dampened with water, and slowly begin cooling your ferret. Don't drench your ferret, because this can cool your ferret's temperature too quickly and cause the animal more stress. If you do not cool your ferret once he begins to go into distress, he will then faint or pass out. If this happens, cool your ferret immediately, and then you must see a vet. Ferrets who seem to recover from heat stroke can still be in a life-threatening state due to the stress that their bodies have been through.
• Be careful when allowing strangers to handle your ferret. It is excellent ferret PR to take your pet to a public place and allowing people unfamiliar with ferrets to learn about them, but there's also a danger to your ferret. Small children can be to rough on your ferret, and they can do harm. Always be cautious about other pets in the area where your ferret is; dogs that have never been around a ferret could attack and kill your ferret before you could intervene. There is also a danger that your ferret could nip the wrong person, even if your ferret has never nipped in the past, and there could be consequences if this should happen. Finally, NEVER take your ferret outdoors if he/she is not current on distemper vaccines as this disease is fatal in ferrets.
• Finally, make sure when you take your ferret somewhere in public that you are aware of the legal status of ferret ownership in the area. So far, ferrets are still illegal in the entire state California and Hawaii, and there are still a few localities in other states that prohibit ferret ownership. Excellent information about the legal issues in California is available from Californians for Ferret Legalization, and a complete list of places that still ban ferrets is available from Ferret Central.

IMPORTANT THING #8: WHAT TO FEED YOUR FERRET

Ferrets are carnivores, and they have very specific nutritional needs. In previous years, it was believed that feeding ferrets a diet of high quality cat or kitten food was a complete enough diet. Foods such as Iams, Science Diet, and ProPlan are not bad foods to feed your ferret. You should not use "store-bought" cat foods such as Meow Mix or Cat Chow; they are nutritionally incomplete diets and can lead to poor health.

Recently, however, a number of foods designed specifically for ferrets have been introduced. Marshall Ferret Food and Mazuri Ferret Diet are very good foods for your ferret. The most recent product to hit the ferret market is Totally Ferret, and I recommend it very highly. It is believed to be the most complete food you could ever feed your ferret.

No matter what food you choose, the key to determining a good food lies in the protein and fat contents, and the primary ingredient of the food. The primary ingredient must be a meat product as opposed to vegetable products. Chicken or poultry are good primary ingredients. The protein content should be 32% or higher, the fat content should be 15-20% or higher. You should only feed your ferret dry foods, as moist foods are generally not as complete and the lack of hard foods will cause your ferret's teeth to become stained and eventually rotten.

IMPORTANT THING #9: DECIDING IF YOU SHOULD GIVE YOUR FERRET UP

It may seem odd to find on a page about ferret ownership information to help you decide if you should give your ferret up. However, in this business I have seen so many examples of people who own ferrets but probably shouldn't. Many times, the people don't even realize that they are not good ferret owners.

Every home is different, and in this space I can't cover every sign that ferret ownership isn't for you. But the following is a very general list of things that ferrret owners should not do; if you are guilty of even one of the following items, you either need to change your behavior or consider giving up your ferret.

• If it would cost you serious financial strain if tomorrow your ferret became ill and needed a $300-$400 surgery, plus follow-up treatment. Ferrets can and do suddenly have medical emergencies that can't wait until the end of the month for you to scrape up some extra cash.
• If you do not have time in your day, every day, to spend interactive time with your ferret for at least a few hours. This can be as simple as letting your ferret out while you watch TV, do chores, etc. (provided you can supervise your ferret at the same time). You should still play with your ferret, cuddle him or her, and generally let your ferret know you still love him/her. If your ferret has ample run time daily, but doesn't get much interactive time with you, you may want to consider getting a second ferret. Ferrets MUST have love and attention given to them regularly. It really doesn't matter if this attention is provided by a human or another ferret, but be warned that if you have only one ferret, and he is generally affectionate and loving to you, if you get a second ferret it is likely that he will transfer those feelings to the new ferret and become more distanced to you. However, ferrets that are not shown some form of daily attention and love from some source will become "lovesick" and their health is likely to decline; the lifespan of ferrets that are not bonded to a human or another ferret tend to be much shorter than those that are shown love.
• If there are young children in your home that tend to "manhandle" your ferret too much or who do not understand the proper way to treat a ferret. The PFRA took possession of a ferret from a home where little adult supervision was provided to the children in the home that played with the ferret. There were reports from the neighbors of this family that the children would take the ferret outside and swing him by his tail or neck. They would occasionally throw the ferret into the air, terrorizing the poor animal, and sometimes they did not catch him when he fell. When the mother was confronted about this behavior she denied it, but after investigating the PFRA saw the behavior firsthand. If you have children who are capable of this behavior, perhaps you should wait a few years before getting another ferret.
• If you are expecting a baby and do not have any way of ensuring that the ferret and the baby will be separated. Do not alter your ferret's lifestyle by decreasing his or her runtime or interactive time. The only truly safe way to have a baby and a ferret at the same time it to have a designated "ferret room" where your ferrets can run freely but not have access to your baby. You will still need to have interactive time with your ferret daily, perhaps while your baby naps. NOTE: this is not only the case with ferrets; no pets should be allowed access to a baby except under the strictest of supervision!
• If you do not believe that ferrets need to have annual distemper vaccinations or annual vet checkups.
• If you cannot properly ferretproof your home to the dangers that ferrets may be exposed to. If you regularly find your ferret in a potentially dangerous location, and for any reason you cannot prevent your ferret from having access to this place, don't endanger your ferret.
• If the natural mischevious behavior of ferrets causes you to become frustrated or angry with your ferret. If you constantly feel as though all you do is follow your ferret around and keep him from getting into things, and this causes you to feel stressed. Ferret ownership should be fun and enjoyable; pets are supposed to help us relieve the daily stresses of life. If your ferret causes you stress, you cannot properly provide love and warmth to your pet.
• If you travel very frequently and cannot or do not take your ferret with you.

Again, these are only a few danger signs that perhaps it is time to surrender your ferret to a better home. If you decide that you can no longer keep your ferrets, please contact your local ferret shelter; they will be able to properly care for your ferret until an excellent home is found.

IMPORTANT THING #10: WHERE TO FIND HELP

Even the best ferret owners need a little help now and then. We still need good ferret products and services, books and other publications to inform us of the very latest information, and we need to know where to turn when our ferrets get sick and we can't find the cause. Whatever you are looking for, there are some excellent resources available to help.

The following is a list of ferret resources to which the PFRA has extended their recommendation. If you believe that you know of other resources (products/retailers, veterinarians, books, newsletters, etc.), or if you would like us to review a publication/product of yours, feel free to contact us and we will be happy to check it out. If we feel it is worthy of our recommendation, we will gladly add it to our list. (Note: we do not review individual shelters. It is our opinion that anyone who is willing to devote the time, money, and energy into rescuing ferrets already deserves praise and recommendation. Furthermore, there are national ferret organizations that specifically do review shelters, and we'll leave that impressive job up to them).

• A Practical Guide To Ferret Care by Deborah Jeans

• The Pennsylvania Ferreter, published by the Pennsylvania Ferret Rescue Association (of course we recommend it!)
  
• The American Ferret Report, published by the American Ferret Association
  
• Modern Ferret Magazine, published by Crunchy Concepts
  
• Ferrets USA Magazine (annual), published by Fancy Publications (available at some book and pet stores)

• The American Ferret Association
  
• The Ferret FAQ
  

• Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, Armed Forces Department of Pathology: He is very willing to answer questions or provide a second opinion about any medical problem you may have about your ferret. He is available by e-mail <accupath@tomco.net> or by phone (Mon-Fri) at (202) 782-2600/2602.

• The Ferret Store from NorthEast Exotic Pet Supply has a great deal of excellent ferret supplies, from cages to hammocks to care products, all at reasonable prices.