This kite uses a horizontal spar with 2 standoffs and a
corresponding line tensioner on each side of the vertical center
spline. This gives the top wing a return angle from the initial
dihedrhal angle from the spline.
I had built a couple of cross deck designs and wanted to
eliminate the bottom winglet. This design evolved from that
thought.
The materials needed for construction include:
Ripstop nylon, 3/4 oz. -- 5 yds @ 40 in. wide
Fiberglass tubing, .298" dia. -- 3 pcs x 32 1/2" lg.
Fiberglass tubing, .317" dia. -- 3 pcs x 39 1/2" lg.
Fiberglass tubing, .248" dia. -- 2 pcs x 32 1/2" lg.
Graphite tubing, .188" dia. -- 6 pcs x 32 1/2" lg.
Misc. -- arrow nocks, Fg rod for internal ferrules, barrel
beads, 1/2" dia. metal slip rings, and 20+ ft. of line for the
bridle and some of the connection points.
I have mentioned in several other of the designs I can not sew
folded over hems on curved edges that look decent. Have always
liked using black, double folded bias tape for these
curved edges. This black bias tape also "outlines" the kite in
the sky plus I don't need to add hem allowances to the panel
patterns. This is your preference......
Before the panel cutting and sewing steps would be the planning of the graphics or panel colors. As suggested in the Kite Plan Index, this planning could use Paint Shop Pro or Windows Paintbrush.
| ITEM | QTY | DESCRIPTION |
|---|---|---|
| #1 | 1 | .298" dia. x ~79" lg. fg tubing w/ arrow nock on one end & internal ferrule of disassembly. |
| #2 | 6 | .188" dia. x ~24 3/4" lg. fiberglass tubing . An option would be to use .248" dia fg tubing |
| #3 | 2 | .248" dia. x ~13 1/4" lg. fiberglass tubing. |
| #4 | 1 | .317" dia. x 13 1/4" lg. fg tubing. |
| #5 | 2 | .317" dia. x 40" lg. fiberglass tubing w/ arrow nock on one end, an internal ferrule on the other end and a line tensioner. |
| Determine exact lengths at time of rigging. |
Takedown requires Step 1) loosening the 2 line tensioners, Step
2) removing the bottom half of the spline #1, Step 3) removing
the #2 standoffs from the connectors on Panel C, leave them
connected to the spar holders on Panel B. I epoxy them in place
permanently. Step 4) Remove the #5 cross spars, leaving the #4
spacer in place and Step #5 is rolling up and bagging the kite
for another day.
Of course, reverse these steps for initial setup.
The adjustment of the 2 top line tensioners does need some care
that they are set at an equal length. Not adjusted equally will
make the
return angle of the top wing to be "lopsided" with one side
presenting more "projected" area to the wind than the other side.
You will notice this being a problem when launching and the kite
continuously drops off to the side.
The use of the tail in higher winds speeds is recommended.
There are instructions for making a storage bag with the ROK plans.