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This kite uses a horizontal spar with 2 standoffs and a
corresponding line tensioner on each side of the vertical center
spline. This gives the top wing a return angle from the initial
dihedrhal angle from the spline. I like the shape this creates in
the sky.
I originally used this rigging configuration on a modified cross deck.
There are a number of variations to the configuration I would
like to try; maybe next summer. These variations are mentioned at
the end of this plan.
The materials needed for construction include:
Ripstop nylon, 3/4 oz. -- 6 yds @ 40 in. wide
Fiberglass tubing, .505" dia. -- 2 pcs x 54" lg.
Fiberglass tubing, .317" dia. -- 3 pcs x 39 1/2" lg.
Fiberglass tubing, .248" dia. -- 4 pcs x 32 1/2" lg.
Graphite tubing, .188" dia. -- 7 pcs x 32 1/2" lg.
Misc. -- arrow nocks, Fg rod for internal ferrules, barrel
beads, 1/2" dia. metal slip rings, and 20+ ft. of line for the
bridle and some of the connection points.
I show 2 options for creating the sleeves for the wing tip
spreaders. The use of either would probably be dependent of the
graphics you have planned. Option #1 is sewing a hemmed strip
with the ends open over the base fabric. Option #2 involves
joining 2 separate pieces of fabric together with a folded over
seam. The wide fold creates the sleeve for the fiberglass tube
spreader.
I can not sew folded over hems on curved edges that look decent.
Have always liked using black, double folded bias tape for these
curved edges. This black bias tape also "outlines" the kite in
the sky plus I don't need to add hem allowances to the panel
patterns. This is your preference......
Before the panel cutting and sewing steps would be the planning of the graphics or panel colors. As suggested in the Kite Plan Index, this planning could use Paint Shop Pro or Windows Paintbrush.
| ITEM | QTY | DESCRIPTION |
|---|---|---|
| #1 | 1 | .317" dia. x ~83" lg. fg tubing w/ arrow nock on one end & internal ferrule of 1/4" dia. fg rod or tubing |
| #2 | 2 | .188" dia. x ~27 1/2"" lg. graphite tubing . An option would be to use .248" dia fg tubing |
| #3 | 2 | .188" dia. x ~30" lg. graphite tubing. |
| #4 | 1 | .505" dia. x 12" lg. fg tubing. |
| #5 | 2 | .248" dia. x ~26" lg. fiberglass tubing w/ arrow nocks on both ends. |
| #6 | 2 | .248" dia. x ~22" lg. fiberglass tubing w/ arrow nocks on both ends. |
| #7 | 2 | .188" dia. x ~36" lg. graphite tubing w/ arrow nock on one end. |
| #8 | 2 | .505" dia. x 43" lg. fiberglass tubing w/ arrow nock on one end, an internal ferrule and a line tensioner. |
| Determine exact lengths at time of rigging. |
Setup requires 1) installing the bottom half of the spline #1, 2)
connecting the standoffs #2 & #3 into the bottom wing connectors
on both
sides, 3) and installing the horizontal spars #8 with the spacer
#4 for the top &
then adjusting the 2 line tensioners. The setup of the bottom
involves
installing the 2 cross spars #7 and adjusting the line tensioner
to
hold the bottom open.
The adjustment of the 2 top line tensioners does need some care
that they are set at an equal length. Not adjusted equally will
make the
return angle of the top wing to be "lopsided". You will notice
this being a problem when launching and the kite continuously
drops off to the side.
The use of the tail in higher winds speeds is recommended.
There are instructions for making a storage bag with the ROK plans.
Here are some thoughts for some possible changes in the confiuration of the kite as shown in these plans. Some of these I have tried, most of them I haven't.
As is usually the case, probably most of these ideas won't have
any significant impact of flying characteristics, but it is
always interesting to check them out.
