KITE PLAN - DOUBLE WINGED BOX

John Maxworthy, Long Island, NY
Date: June 7, '97
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BACKGROUND / MATERIALS

The proportions for this double winged delta-box appeared in the fall '96 issue of the Aerial Eye and was built by Masami Nakajima. I increased the proportions from the original wingpsan of 86" to the 110" per the plans shown here and "canted" the kite forward 7" over the height of 35". The intent was to present a vertical face to the wind for the cell/ box openings. Does this "canting" make any difference ? -- Who knows....

I built this kite wanting to get a good lifter for my KAP rig. The intent was to get alot of lift in the compact area of the double delta wings and the stability provide with the sides of the box side panels and the keel. The graphite spars were used to keep the weight minimized for lighter winds.

This kite does have a great deal of line pull and flies at a very high angle of attack. It hasn't overflown yet, but I bet under the right circumstances, it would do so. I have tried several different tails and drag chutes, but they don't seem to make much difference. I'll be trying it out with the camera rig shortly.

The materials needed for construction include:
Ripstop nylon, 3/4 oz. -- 7 yds @ 54 in. wide
Graphite tubing, .187" dia. -- 14 pcs x 29" lg.
Fiberglass tubing, .310" dia. -- 4 pcs x 54" lg.
Pro Spar graphite tubing, .352" dia. -- 2 pcs x 54" lg.
Fiberglass rod, 3/32" dia. -- 1 pc x 22" lg. This rod is optional and is used
in the leading edge of the keel.
Misc. -- arrow nocks, Fg or brass tubing for the external ferrules, barrel
beads, 1/2" dia. metal slip rings, and a 3/8" dia. brass gromment.

PANEL ID AND SEWING STEPS


Before sewing, there are 2 important steps to keep in mind. 1) because of the strong kite pull and only a single tow line connection point, the tow line grommented connection has to be sturdily reenforced and 2) measure and remeasure the dimensions before sewing the wing panels and keel panels to the box panels during the final sewing steps. If not careful, you will end up with a lopsided configuration when finished.

I have also shown the steps to be taken for sewing the graphics (black & yellow darts) as seen in the Gallery I photographs of this kite. They certainly are nothing special, but give you the reasoning/ rules-of-thumb I use when doing these steps.

FITTINGS AND CONNECTIONS

As mentioned in one of the other plans, I have gotten in the habit of using metal slip rings on the connection loops. This probably adds unnecessary weight to the kite, but I like the idea of everything being more durable. Whatever end fittings you feel comfortable using is always my suggestion.

SPAR/ SPLINE ID AND DETAILS

Other than the table below, click on the above image for the details I use for protecting the ends of the pulturded graphite tubing when used with or without arrow nocks.

ITEMQTYDESCRIPTION
#12.354" dia. x 54" lg. Pro Spar graphite tubing w/ arrow nocks on each end.
#24.310" dia. x 52 1/2" lg. Fiberglass tubing w/ protective caps on each end.
#35.187" dia. x ~55" lg. graphite tubing w/ arrow nocks on each end. An external ferrule joins the shorter tubing lengths together.
#44.187" dia. x 27 1/2" lg. graphite tubing.
#513/32" dia. x 23" lg. Fiberglass rod. This is optional. See the sewing details of panel D.


Determine exact lengths at time of rigging.

BRIDLE & SETUP


I feel comfortable using a 200 lb. towline. Anything less might be a problem.

Takedown and setup requires only removing or installing the 4 cross spars, #4 and the 2 wing spreaders, #2. Remember to slip the wing spreaders through the 4 hold down loops, otherwise, this kite will deform a great deal.

All other spars & splines are kept in place, rolled up and and bagged.

There are instructions for making a storage bag with the ROK plans.


You can reach me by e-mail at: jmaxworthy@sprynet.com

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